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Mortgage guide

Every rate has a price.

The rate you see advertised is only half the story. Here's how points and lender credits work, why no rate is ever free, and how to choose the right tradeoff for your plans.

The most important idea on this page

Often, the lowest rate is the most expensive.

A rock bottom rate usually comes with thousands of dollars in points. If you sell or refinance before those points pay for themselves, you paid extra for a rate you never got the full benefit of. The best rate isn't the lowest one. It's the one that costs you the least over the time you actually keep the loan.

The rate is a menu, not a number

When a lender quotes you a rate, they're really showing you one option on a menu. For the same loan, on the same day, there's a range of rates available. Lower rates cost more upfront. Higher rates cost less upfront, and can even pay you a credit toward your closing costs.

That's why two lenders can quote very different rates and still be offering similar deals. One may be quoting a low rate that requires you to pay points. The other may be quoting a higher rate with no points at all. Until you know what each rate costs, you can't compare them.

What a point is

A point is a fee equal to 1% of your loan amount. On a $400,000 loan, one point costs $4,000. Half a point costs $2,000. Points don't have to be whole numbers. A quote might include a quarter point, or 1.375 points.

There are two directions on the menu:

Discount points are money you pay at closing to buy a lower rate. You pay more now to pay less every month.** Lender credits** work the opposite way. You accept a higher rate, and the lender gives you money toward your closing costs. You pay less now and more every month.

In the middle is what lenders call the par rate: the rate with no points and no credit.

The rate menu

Same loan. Same day. Different tradeoffs.

Every option below is for the same borrower and the same property. What changes is when you pay for the money: upfront, or over time.

Lowest rate

You pay the most at closing

Lower rate

You pay some points

Par rate

No points, no credit

Higher rate

Lender pays you a credit

Highest rate

Largest credit toward closing costs

Illustration only. Actual pricing changes daily and depends on your loan, credit and property.

Why no rate is ever free

Lenders, brokers and investors who buy loans all get paid. The only question is how. Either you pay upfront through points and fees, or you pay over time through a higher rate. A loan advertised as "no cost" still has a cost. It's built into the rate.

This also explains the eye catching rates you see online. Many of them assume you'll pay points, and sometimes a lot of them. The rate looks great until you see what it costs to get it.

When paying points makes sense

Points are a bet that you'll keep the loan long enough for the monthly savings to add up to more than you paid. They tend to make sense when:

You plan to stay in the home, and keep the loan, for many years. You have extra cash after your down payment and reserves. You don't expect rates to drop enough to make refinancing worth it soon.

The key number is your breakeven: how many months it takes for the monthly savings to pay back what you spent on points. If you'll keep the loan well past breakeven, points can save real money. If you sell or refinance before then, you lose money on them.

Try it with your numbers

Points breakeven calculator

Enter the numbers from a real quote. Ask your lender for the monthly payment at two different rates, and what each one costs.

Enter your numbers to see the result.

When a lender credit makes sense

Taking a slightly higher rate in exchange for a credit is often the smarter move, even though it feels backwards. It tends to fit when:

You expect to sell or refinance within a few years. Cash is tight and you'd rather keep it in the bank. You think rates may come down and you'll want to refinance. Every dollar you save at closing is a dollar you keep for reserves, repairs or your next move.

The investor angle

For investors, this decision matters even more. If your plan is to buy, renovate and refinance within a year, paying points on the first loan usually makes no sense. You'll pay them off long before you break even. A credit that lowers your cash to close keeps more money working for you.

It also matters on DSCR loans. A lower rate lowers the payment, which can improve the ratio and help a property qualify. In that case, buying the rate down can be worth it for reasons beyond monthly savings. Just remember that many DSCR loans carry a prepayment penalty, so factor in how long you'll really hold the loan.

FHA, VA and USDA borrowers too

Points and credits work the same way on government loans. On an FHA loan, mortgage insurance adds to the true cost, so see how FHA mortgage insurance works. USDA has its own guarantee fee.

Sellers can pay for it too

In a buyer friendly market, a seller credit can be used to pay for points and buy down your rate. Sometimes a credit used this way does more for your monthly payment than the same amount taken off the price. It's worth running both ways before you negotiate.

What a good lender should be doing

The goal of a good lender isn't to win you over with the lowest rate. It's to put you in the cheapest possible mortgage for the life of the loan.

That means looking at both sides of the cost: what you pay at closing and what you pay every month after. It means asking how long you really plan to keep the loan, because for most people that's far less than 30 years. People sell, move up and refinance. And it means showing you the whole menu, then helping you choose the option with the lowest total cost for your plans, even when that isn't the lowest rate.

That's the standard I hold myself to, and the same way I choose the financing on my own properties.

How to compare quotes

For conventional loans specifically, see why two lenders quote different rates.

Every lender has to give you a Loan Estimate, a standard three page form. Look at Section A, Origination Charges, to see points you're paying. Look for lender credits further down on the same form. Compare offers for the same loan amount, on the same day, with the same rate lock period. Otherwise you're comparing different things.

The APR can help, because it folds some upfront costs into a single number. But it assumes you keep the loan for its full term, which most people don't. Your real timeline matters more.

Go deeper

The full pricing library

Rates, points, credits, locks and buydowns in more detail.

Talk it through with Dane.

You do not need to be ready to apply. Send the property, the question or the plan, and I will tell you what I see.